Dalmard Marine : The authentic French woollen peacoat

The characteristics of the real peacoat

1- French woollen cloth Jules Tournier

For decades, our authentic peacoat has been made from a woolen cloth, a blend of virgin and recycled wool. This woollen cloth has been made for over 150 years by an exceptional French company Jules Tournier, awarded the “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant” label.

This wool fabric gives our pea coat naturally water-repellent and breathable properties, whilst retaining body heat and wicking away perspiration. Thanks to its excellent insulating properties, it offers optimal protection against the cold and wind.
The wool fabric used to make our pea coat also undergoes an anti-pilling treatment, giving it a firmer feel and ensuring it retains its shape over time.

2- Wide and solid collar

The width of the collar of the peacoat allows, once it is raised, to completely cover the neck. It can be closed on some models with a collar tab to keep warm.

3- Exterior patch pockets

The Dalmard Marine peacoat has two patch pockets on the outside and also, depending on the model, pockets on the chest and/or inside.

4- Double buttoning

The double buttoning is characteristic of the peacoat. Depending on the direction of the wind, it is possible to close the peacoat on one side or the other to always stay warm.

5- Steel or brass buttons

Steel and brass buttons add character to our peacoat. Depending on the material, the buttons come in black, gold or silver. They are decorated with a marine symbol such as a sea anchor, a compass rose, a coat of arms...

How French woollen cloth is made

Step 1 Dyeing the raw material

Our French woollen cloth is made from a blend of virgin and recycled wool. In the first stage, the unbleached virgin wool is dyed navy. The recycled wool is already dyed, as it comes exclusively from sailor sweater cuttings.

Step 2 Preparation and mixing

Once the dyeing has been completed, the two types of wool must be prepared and mixed. This mixture of several shades of blue and black will add depth to the final color of the wool cloth.

Step 3 Carded spinning

At this stage, the wool fibers are combed and untangled using carding machines, special combs with metal teeth. Carding cleans and aligns the fibers in the same direction. The sliver is then spun into a continuous yarn. This is carded spinning.

Step 4 Weaving

Next comes the weaving stage. For this stage, the wool yarns are connected to a loom, a machine used in the textile industry. A distinction is made here between two sets of threads: warp and weft. The weft threads pass alternately over and under the warp threads to form large pieces of fabric.

Step 5 Wool washing and fulling

To become a woollen sheet, woollen fabrics must then undergo fulling. This stage felts the fabric using a mechanical process. Placed in a vat filled with hot water and soap, the fabric is struck repeatedly by fullers (mechanical beaters). This step ensures effective interlacing of the wool fibers, giving the fabric exceptional thickness, abrasion resistance and durability.

Step 6 Dry finishing and anti-pilling treatment

During this final stage, the wool cloth undergoes ennobling, a set of processes and techniques designed to improve its characteristics. Here, the wool cloth is subjected to a thermal shock under several bars of pressure. It becomes water-repellent and virtually indestructible. At this stage, the wool cloth undergoes an anti-pilling treatment to give it a firmer hand.